Today, the Nubians number around 1 million people, with about half of them located in Egypt and the other half in the Sudan. When Egyptian Nubia disappeared beneath the floodwaters, many archaeologists began to recognize the tremendous potential of the non-flooded regions lying further south in Sudan. They knew that there, where the Nile made a great S-loop, lay the heartland of a mysterious ancient Nubian kingdom which the Egyptians called Kush , which first rose to prominence in the 3rd millennium BC.
Only recently has the importance of the Kushite Kingdom to Egyptian history been fully realized. Egypt and Kush were two states, existing at the same time and separated from one another by a hundred miles of virtually unnavigable Nile and uninhabitable desert. Their peoples were different ethnically and linguistically, yet they were in constant communication and developed a cultural symbiosis that evolved throughout recorded history. Kush was an urban, literate kingdom in sub-Saharan Africa, whose people and rulers were black.
It fills your hair, your eyes, your water-bottles; silts up your colour-box; dries into your skies; and reduces your Chinese white to a gritty paste the colour of salad-dressing.
miles-up-the-nile-amelia-edwards-travel-book | Shapero Rare Books
As for the flies, they have a morbid appetite for water-colours. They follow your wet brush along the paper, leave their legs in the yellow ocher, and plunge with avidity into every little pool of cobalt as it is mixed ready for use. Nothing disagrees with them; nothing poisons them — not even olive-green.
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May 12, Hella rated it it was amazing Shelves: journaling , memoir-letters , travel. Wat een verrukkelijk boek is dit. Toen reizen nog een avontuur was, toen Egyptische oudheden nog half onder het zand lagen, toen je zelf onderweg nog eens een tombe kon openen, of een waterpijpje roken met een lokale sjeik.
In reisde Amelia Edwards met de boot de Nijl af, met een klein reisgezelschap en een grote bemanning die roeide, trok, eten verzorgde en met lokale overheden onderhandelde. Rijke buitenlanders maakten Nijlreizen, op eigen gelegenheid of met de stoomboot van Thomas Cook. Edwards is ontzaglijk belezen en bereisd, en ze maakt prachtige tekeningen bij haar minutieuze en sfeervolle verslagen. Smakelijk vertelt ze over de reisavonturen, gedegen doet ze verslag van alle bezienswaardigheden. De Abu Simbel tempel later, na de bouw van de Aswan dam naar een plek hogerop verplaatst lag nog vlak aan de Nijl, half door zand overstroomd.
De tempel van Esneh lag tot aan de kapitelen onder het zand. Natuurlijk is Edwards een dame van haar tijd. Bij de armoede van de bevolking of de bemanning staat ze niet erg stil.
Wel lijkt de positie van de iets beter gesitueerde vrouwen haar afschuwelijk, die zitten alleen maar binnen en vervelen zich dood, terwijl Edwards zelf al die schatten ziet, en onverschrokken stikdonkere graftombes betreedt, of de piramides beklimt dat mocht toen nog gewoon.
Een leven en een reis om jaloers op te zijn. Heerlijk om zo'n levendig verslag te mogen lezen. Jun 16, Gail Carriger rated it it was amazing Shelves: favorites , victorian-primary , research , non-fic , reviewed. One of the best ways to get a feel for not just the Victorian behavior abroad but also what Egypt was like during the s and the style of writing during this time.
A must read for writers of historical fiction. Jul 07, Kristina M. Attempting to get my hands on a copy of this book from the public library, however I don't think it's been published since the 's Thank goodness for public domain. Sep 28, E. The reading was good and there was some interesting info about the geography of Egypt. But so much racism Jan 20, Magali rated it really liked it Shelves: auteur-feminin , english , non-fiction. Wonderful Best description of Egypt and sights and artifacts I have ever read.
Her skills as an author made the place and the people come alive. No wonder Elizabeth Peters, who is my favorite author, was inspired by her. This was a great book to read. I really enjoyed, for the most part, her descriptions of Egypt. It was very interesting to get a feel of what travel was like during the Victorian era. She really has a way of describing the landscape of Egypt and all of her travel adventures in the Victorian era in a very interesting and entertaining way.
It takes a little to get into the Victorian style of writing, but it is quite enjoyable. One thing I found a little over-done were the descriptions of ruin This was a great book to read. One thing I found a little over-done were the descriptions of ruin sites. It was interesting to have them described in great detail as really none of the sites had yet to be excavated at the time this book was written, but at times for me she went into too much detail and it got a bit dry.
I think she was really trying to document what she saw in great detail as she already had knowledge around how the sites were being plundered and defaced even in this early time of Archeology, which is great for a historical record, but tedious to read. I really had mixed emotions while reading this book.
If I did not feel like I was on such a time crunch, I probably would have enjoyed reading it at a more leisurely pace. I really enjoyed it and got a lot out of it, it will serve me well in my upcoming adventures ……at times I just felt over it. I am very glad I read it though. Jun 04, Kathy rated it liked it Shelves: travel , nonfiction. Amelia Edward's account of her travels in Egypt, in the mids I only read pieces of chapters of this book She gives a sort of documentary feel to her travels Jun 19, Lucy rated it really liked it Shelves: egypt , journeys-guides , the-mile.
She is fabulous.
The three-month flight along the Nile
Some of her adventures and her opinions are truly outrageous, but none can argue that she was not committed to saving the antiquities in Egypt. I reread Elizabeth Peters 's Crocodile on the Sandbank recently and was struck anew by how similar it is to this tale. So much fun! Amelia's "restoration" of Abu Simbel is particularly overwhelming.
These differ from each other only in the metal, the patterns being identical; and they are sold by weight, with a due margin for profit. In dealing with strangers who do not understand the Egyptian system of weights, silver articles are commonly weighed against rupees or five-franc pieces, and gold articles against napoleons or sovereigns. As for the merchants, their civility and patience are inexhaustible. One may turn over their whole stock, try on all their bracelets, go away again and again without buying, and yet be always welcomed and dismissed with smiles.
But the bazaars, however picturesque, are far from being the only sights of Cairo.
There are mosques in plenty; grand old Saracenic gates; ancient Coptic churches; the museum of Egyptian antiquities; and, within driving distance, the tombs of the Caliphs, Heliopolis, the Pyramids, and the Sphinx. To remember in what order the present travellers saw these things would now be impossible; for they lived in a dream, and were at first too bewildered to catalogue their impressions very methodically.
Some places they were for the present obliged to dismiss with only a passing glance; others had to be wholly deferred till their return to Cairo. In the meanwhile, our first business was to look at dahabeeyahs; and the looking at dahabeeyahs compelled us constantly to turn our steps and our thoughts in the direction of Boulak—a desolate place by the river, where some two or three hundred Nile-boats lay moored for hire.
Now, most persons know something of the miseries of house-hunting; but only those who have experienced them know how much keener are the miseries of dahabeeyah-hunting. It is more bewildering and more fatiguing, and is beset by its own special and peculiar difficulties. The boats, in the first place, are built on the same plan, which is not the case with houses; and except as they run bigger or smaller, cleaner or dirtier, are as like each other as twin oysters. The same may be said of their captains, with the same differences; for to a person who has been only a few days in Egypt, one black or copper-coloured man is exactly like every other black or copper-coloured man.
Nor is this all. Dahabeeyahs are given to changing their places, which houses do not do; so that the boat which lay yesterday alongside the eastern bank may be over at the western bank to-day, or hidden in the midst of a dozen others half a mile lower down the river.
Expertise. Insights. Illumination.
Their names, again,—Ghazal, Sarawa, Fostat, Dongola,—unlike any names one has ever heard before, afford as yet no kind of help to the memory. Neither do the names of their captains; for they are all Mohammeds or Hassans. Neither do their prices; for they vary from day to day, according to the state of the market as shown by the returns of arrivals at the principal hotels. Thus it came to pass that, for the first ten days or so, some three or four hours had to be devoted every morning to the business of the boats; at the end of which time we were no nearer a conclusion than at first. The largest boats, which alone seemed unexceptionable, contained from eight to ten cabins, besides two saloons, and were obviously too large for a party consisting of only L.
And all were exorbitantly dear. Meanwhile, however, we met some former acquaintances; made some new ones; and when not too tired or down-hearted, saw what we could of the sights of Cairo—which helped a little to soften the asperities of our lot. We started immediately after an early luncheon, followed an excellent road all the way, and were back in time for dinner at half-past six.
But it must be understood that we did not go to see the Pyramids. We went only to look at them. Later on having meanwhile been up the Nile and back, and gone through months of training , we came again not only with due leisure, but also with some practical understanding of the manifold phases through which the arts and architecture of Egypt had passed, since those far-off days of Cheops and Chephren.
Then, only, we can be said to have seen the Pyramids; and till we arrived at that stage of our pilgrimage, it will be well to defer everything like a detailed account of them or their surroundings. Of this first brief visit, enough therefore a brief record. The first glimpse that most travellers now get of the Pyramids is from the window of the railway carriage as they come from Alexandria; and it is not impressive. The well-known triangular forms look small and shadowy, and are too familiar to be in any way startling.
And the same, I think, is true of every distant view of them—that is, of every view which is too distant to afford the means of scaling them against other objects. It is only in approaching them, and observing how they grow with every foot of the road, that one begins to feel they are not so familiar after all.
It shuts out the sky and the horizon. It shuts out all the other Pyramids. It shuts out everything but the sense of awe and wonder. Now, too, one discovers that it was with the forms of the Pyramids, and only their forms, that one had been acquainted all these years past. Of their surface, their colour, their relative position, their number to say nothing of their size , one had hitherto entertained no kind of definite idea. The most careful study of plans and measurements, the clearest photographs, the most elaborate descriptions, had done little or nothing, after all, to make one know the place beforehand.
This undulating table-land of sand and rock, pitted with open graves and cumbered with mounds of shapeless masonry, is wholly unlike the desert of our dreams. The Pyramids of Cheops and Chephren are bigger than we had expected; the Pyramid of Mycerinus is smaller. Here, too, are nine Pyramids, instead of three.